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Wobblycogs Workshop
United Kingdom
Приєднався 13 тра 2015
One man and his workshop. I try to mainly tackle woodworking projects but I just love building things so there will be everything ranging from wood turning to electronics and even some metalwork.
Bathroom Build Part 6
In this, possibly the final instalment in the series, I fit the sink, the bath and the window. After this there is just a little tidying up to do and a bit of paint to fix where I damaged it during tiling. I'm really pleased with the quality of what I've installed here even if I'm a little disappointed with how long it took me.
Sponsor me Through Patreon
www.patreon.com/wobblycogs
Visit the Wobblycogs Workshop website
www.wobblycogs.co.uk/
Project Page:
Coming soon...
Follow Wobblycogs Workshop
www.patreon.com/wobblycogs
wobblycogs
wobblycogsworkshop
WobblycogsWkshp
Sponsor me Through Patreon
www.patreon.com/wobblycogs
Visit the Wobblycogs Workshop website
www.wobblycogs.co.uk/
Project Page:
Coming soon...
Follow Wobblycogs Workshop
www.patreon.com/wobblycogs
wobblycogs
wobblycogsworkshop
WobblycogsWkshp
Переглядів: 162
Відео
Bathroom Build Part 5
Переглядів 2016 років тому
In this part of the ongoing bathroom build series I build the cabinet for the toilet and get it plumbed in. Sorry, this isn't my best filming work I left the radio on while I was working so I had to remove a lot of the audio to avoid getting a copyright strike. I also stopped filming for some reason. I'll be back to my usual low quality soon! Sponsor me Through Patreon www.patreon.com/wobblycog...
2019 Woodworking Plan
Переглядів 1736 років тому
A short video talking about what I hope to get done in 2019
Making a Pallet Wood Board aka Wasting my Time
Переглядів 2786 років тому
In this video I waste my time by building a completely rubbish plank out of reclaimed pallet wood. We've recently had some building work done and so I had a load of pallets available to try and do something with. As a general rule I don't like reclaiming wood as it's invariably full of junk (sand, nails, knots, etc) but there was so much of it I couldn't just leave it. Why did I make this video...
Carving a Spice Spoon
Переглядів 2736 років тому
A quick video showing my first proper attempt to carve a spoon or in this case more of a scoop. The idea it is that it's narrow enough to fit into those small spice jars. I've made something like this before but it wasn't as good as this so it gives you an idea how rough they were! Sponsor me Through Patreon www.patreon.com/wobblycogs Visit the Wobblycogs Workshop website www.wobblycogs.co.uk/ ...
Dust Extraction Hose Adapter - 68mm to 63mm
Переглядів 2,3 тис.6 років тому
Cheaply and easily turn a piece of 68mm drain pipe (down pipe) into a 63mm dust extraction hose fitting / adaptor. Turns out the inner diameter of 68mm pipe is 63mm so by cutting off a section, reducing it's diameter and cementing it back together you've gut yourself a cheap hose connector.
Jet JPT 260 Repair Part 2 Reassembly
Переглядів 2,6 тис.6 років тому
UPDATE: Part 1 can be found here: ua-cam.com/video/vd6n4wgRzL8/v-deo.html In this video I put my Jet JPT 260 planer thicknesser back together fitting the new feed roller, feed roller bushings and main drive gear. Sponsor me Through Patreon www.patreon.com/wobblycogs Visit the Wobblycogs Workshop website www.wobblycogs.co.uk/ Project Page: Coming soon... Follow Wobblycogs Workshop www.patreon.co...
Jet JPT 260 Repair - Part 1 - Disassembly
Переглядів 6 тис.6 років тому
UPDATE: Part 2 is out: ua-cam.com/video/Qw3CXx3-D5M/v-deo.html In this video I strip down my Jet JPT 260 planer thicknesser. It suffered a catastrophic failure when one of the bearings / bushings on the infeed roller failed. The failure resulted in the machine shredding the main power feed gear and damaging the shafts of the feed rollers. This is a known problem with early JPT 260 and 310 machi...
Putting Together a Component Tester
Переглядів 1597 років тому
In this video I put together a basic component tester. You can get kits like this from AliExpress, Ebay and loads of other sources for a few pounds. They are useful for learning the basics about electronics in particular learning to solder and it doesn't really matter if you cook something by accident. Sponsor me Through Patreon www.patreon.com/wobblycogs Visit the Wobblycogs Workshop website w...
Repairing a Numatic Henry Motor
Переглядів 34 тис.7 років тому
In this video I repair a Numatic Henry (HVR200) motor, this style of motor fits a wide range of Numatic vacuum cleaners and it's easy to find cheap clone replacements. The original motor for the machine is 1000W whereas this replacement is 1400W. The problem turned out to simply be a failed brush but I dismantled the whole motor and tested it to be sure everything was working as expected and I ...
Bathroom Build Part 4
Переглядів 3037 років тому
In this fourth part of the the bathroom build series we install the dividing wall between the bathroom and the kitchen and then plaster it. I'm joined in this video by Hazel, my wife. Sponsor me Through Patreon www.patreon.com/wobblycogs Visit the Wobblycogs Workshop website www.wobblycogs.co.uk/ Follow Wobblycogs Workshop www.patreon.com/wobblycogs wobblycogs plus.google.com/ Wo...
Bathroom Build - Part 3
Переглядів 3077 років тому
In part three of the bathroom build series I lay the floor. I'm using 18mm WBP ply for the floor deck. Under this will be 100mm of insulation. The insulation is a tight enough fit that it wouldn't fall through between the joists but it's also supported with angle brackets. You might notice that at the end of part two I showed some photos of the plumbing complete but in this part it's vanished.I...
Workshop Update - July 2017
Переглядів 5277 років тому
The July 2017 Workshop Update. There's quite a lot in this video and loads of sneak peaks of videos to come (assuming I ever get the time to edit the raw footage). Hope you enjoy. Sponsor me Through Patreon www.patreon.com/wobblycogs Visit the Wobblycogs Workshop website www.wobblycogs.co.uk/ Follow Wobblycogs Workshop www.patreon.com/wobblycogs wobblycogs plus.google.com/ Wobbly...
Bathroom Build Part 2
Переглядів 2947 років тому
In this part of the bathroom build series I finish getting the joists in and then the waste pipes fitted. Sponsor me Through Patreon www.patreon.com/wobblycogs Visit the Wobblycogs Workshop website www.wobblycogs.co.uk/ Follow Wobblycogs Workshop www.patreon.com/wobblycogs wobblycogs plus.google.com/ WobblycogsUk/posts wobblycogsworkshop WobblycogsWkshp
Bathroom Build Part 1
Переглядів 2807 років тому
I've not been making as many workshop videos as I wanted recently and I thought I'd show you all why. My house is about 200 years old and for the last few years I've been fixing it up. There's a reasonably amount still to do including fitting this bathroom. I asked the builders who built our extension to just put in the walls for this room and now my first job is to fit the floor. Sponsor me Th...
Workshop Lighting - Technical Overview
Переглядів 4667 років тому
Workshop Lighting - Technical Overview
Convert a Quick Release Vice into a Normal Vice
Переглядів 11 тис.8 років тому
Convert a Quick Release Vice into a Normal Vice
Hi wobblycogs workshop could u tell me where u got the plastic drive wheel for the jpt 260 you rebuilt thank you ken
Excelente trabajo, saluods desde Lima-Perú
I had the same idea until i priced up the wood, which in 2024 is more expensive than hiring a scaffold tower for the weekend.
LOL!!! The world’s heaviest necklace😆 ~ Very interesting, creative and industrious of you sir! 🎉 Very Impressive!
Dead benchy
Yawn
Who made you belt sander
Great Job!! Thanks!
Thanks for sharing this! I'm about to do something similar while I i remodel so it's very helpful to see 🙌
Thanks for this video. However I wasn't able to see what you were checking exactly cause wasn't explained and camera didn't catch it. Also there is no schema or overview how to plug battery to test it.
Brilliant - thank you.
You could triangulate to get the dimension of the hypotenuse to determine if it's square.
Hi, it was nice to see your video. I got a question please about motor wiring. Is that motor has + wire and - wire? or does not it matter? because on the motor itself there was no mention of which side is + or -. Or even a wiring diagram .kind regards
Hi, I’m watching your videos on the Jet 260 as my out feed table is lower than my cutting block. How this happened I don’t know. Having stripped my machine ( nothing like your efforts) I cannot find an adjustment to raise the outfeed table or as an alternative lower the cutting head. I was hoping for a point in the right direction but also to ask where you got the schematic diagram as I’ve searched the internet and all I can find is the standard user manual. Sorry for asking but I can’t use my machine any more as I’m getting bad snipes at the end of each surfacing. Many thanks
Hi, strange that the outfeed is too low. Can you not adjust the blades lower in the cutter head so you don't get snipe? There's no adjustment in the cutter head height but you could shim if the outfeed table if necessary. If you go onto the about page for my channel you should see a button that will reveal an email address. If you send me an email I'll send you the diagrams I have for the machine.
@@WobblycogsUk many thanks I’d considered that but now that you’ve said it I’ll do just that. I really appreciate your help thanks
Weird, my brush did the same thing. $10 or so part and it’s up and running.
hi there, what type scre driver bit did you use for that plastic piece screws? thanks in advance
Torx, I think, it was a long time ago
Now would not the sacrificial piece of wood also have to be perfectly square as that is where the good piece rests against?
Plunge in faster, it'll help align it more.
we just ordered a henry hoover and I'm really excited to see how long he lasts.
Mine is still going strong after a motor replacement. I really don't treat mine well either. It lives in the workshop and sucks up all manner of things I don't want to touch.
Sturdy but kinda overkill
Definitely overkill, first time building scaffolding though I wanted too strong rather then too weak
I don't think your adjustment makes any difference because you are using the same reference edge on the domino for both pieces. Sorry to say.
No it does, I have the same problem, got it almost perfect by aligning the “glas”. But that he did it in 1 try, buffels me. I needed 6 tries to get it almost perfect and it’s still like a hair thickness off.
Excellent work
Thank you, I'm hopefully going to start uploading videos again soon.
Awesome
Thanks
Looks heavy!
It was, I doubt I could lift it now. I wanted to make absolutely sure it would be strong enough and succeeded in that goal. To be fair, considering how bad the roof was having something tough around me was probably a good thing.
£30k for materials plus 5 man-years of labor is pretty good. :P Chipboard on a roof? Is that normal? That stuff swells and starts coming apart as soon as it gets a tiny bit wet. I would hope OSB or better yet plywood.
Funnily enough we've just had the roof redone. The fibreglass was incorrectly applied / not suitable and failed. The chipboard held up well considering but the new roof has OSB.
Can you put a link to where I can get that sink or the name and type of sink that is with the stainless steel plate off to the side of it
The style is called a sit on sink I think. It was in the house when I bought it so it don't know where it came from.
Good job
It looks like the lamb/amtek motor used in vacs sold in USA
Thank you for such a helopful video - I'm nearly brave enough to pull mine apart. I guess I'm exploring a little further each time. I do have a question about the chip collector (and maybe chip deflector?).I am hoping you can advise me on something. Is there something that should hold the chip collecter at a certain point - unless my thicknessing table is raised to 100 mm it pivots around until it ends up touching the cutter assembly which is far from ideal. Many thanks. John
I'm not sure I understand what you mean about the chip collector. On my machine I have to lower the thicknessing bed to at least 160mm before the chip collector will swing around far enough that I can lower the planner tables. The chip collector should be directly under the cutter head. The gap between the cutter head and the chip collector is (from memory) quite small, just a few millimetres but they should never be in contact. Ah, do you mean the chip collector swings too far around unless it's resting on the planner table? I don't recall seeing a positive stop for the chip collector. I'm at work right now but when I get back to the workshop I'll take a look.
@@WobblycogsUk That's very kind of you. It's not the issue of having to drop it round to 160. It's all about the gap between the cutter head and chip collector. I can control it if I raise the bed to at leat 110 but I don't think I used to do this. If I don't the cutter head hits the collector. The cutter head is also very close towhat I think must be a deflector. Thank you for your time.
It may be worth noting that if you find the adjustment out beyond the scale the oscillating part is held in position by the security machine screws underneath. They are threadlocked because the position is held by the clamping action only and not positively restrained, therefore if they are loosened the centre of the 'sweep' can move easily.
Thanks, that's a really good tip.
What does it mean when it starts making a very loud noise ?
Possibly a bearing has failed. Check to see if it's getting unusually hot after running for a while. The whole unit comes as one piece though so you'll have to replace the lot if there is a problem.
Great video, a life saver, thanks. Where can I get the parts and how much was the roller, bushings and white plastic cog? I think I have just had the same problem. Bought mine 2nd hand as well, from a chap who said he hardly used it. Had a decent few months but it just started jumping on the chain and stuttering in thicknessing mode. Now it won't collect the wood. I havent dared look inside yet. When I bought it I used your video to reassemble as we took it apart to get into my car when I bought it, so i have taken apart before. Cheers in advance. David C
I got the parts through Axminster Tools (UK) which is where I bought the machine. The infeed and outfeed rollers were £26 each. The bushings and nylon gear were free; I think you'd be lucky to get them for free now though. The parts were known to fail and Jet did a free replacement program for a while, it had been finished a couple of years when I applied in 2017. Best of luck.
@@WobblycogsUk cheers
@@WobblycogsUk was there a particular person at Axminster?
good video - I have an old Woden vice and the spring disconnected this afternoon from the quick release lever - trying to find a picture or a video showing the set up on a Woden is a nightmare.
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
NOT CLAMPS.
Very nice, I loved the work being shown and the commentary, as well as the time lapse photos. Good video 👍👍
Any new videos on the way would be great to get an update
Great video. You have incredible patience, and I can tell you have experience as a machinist or mechanical engineer. I've had the JJP-12HH jointer/planer combo for about 5 years now, and the planer is no longer feeding well. The planer bed is clean and coated, I just turned the cutters so they should be sharp and I replaced both belts. Just like you I found that lifting the motor was an ordeal. Very poorly designed method of tensioning the belt. I'm going to adjust the roller pressure, but I'm not holding out much hope that's going to fix the problem. You shouldn't have to adjust the rollers, but maybe I'll get lucky. I sure hope I don't have to go to this length to replace bearings. If it comes to that I may just use it solely as a jointer.
Thanks, I have no formal engineering or machinist training just a passion for learning. I find that the outfeed roller tends to become glazed / shiny over time and stops feeding properly. A light rub over with some fine sand paper seems to fix the problem. It might be possible to fix it by cleaning the roller too but I don't want to use water or solvent on it.
thanks a lot for this video, definitely got me the courage I was lacking to change my cutter head to a HH :) (on a record power 310 = JPT 310)
I bought a woodpecker steel square ,it was expensive but accurate . It is a must to have since the square is so important as far as accuracy . Basically i use old hand tool and my accurate square . Thank you for this post ,it was most helpful ! GM
Thanks for the idea.. I will try to do..
Let’s take something simple and use it to give us a lot of work to do.
I think you’ve done the same thing with your comment... are you trying to say “let’s take something simple and complicate it”?
I would have done this with a table saw and a good miter gauge. Chop saw limits the size of the clamps.
A table saw would certainly allow for larger clamps but you have to work with what you've got. Cheers.
I Would like to know if that flat roof has leaked yet????
Yeah, I leaks like a sieve. The large flat area seems to be holding up but the top coat is already cracking. The parapets let in water like there's no tomorrow though. The coping stones aren't quite wide enough so there's essentially no overhang on the inside. With any luck we'll be getting it fixed in the next couple of weeks. Unfortunately the original builder went bankrupt before he could fix it.
Nice. I’ll definitely be making those at some point. I don’t know what kind of glue you’re using, but the wood glue I use doesn’t adhere to packing tape so I cover my wooden clamping blocks and calls in it.
You can adjust your framing square with a center punch. Punch near the corner until it is 90 deg.
You beautiful bastard. Just saved me a huge amount of time. Thanks for this vid.
You're welcome
Thanks for that. But isn't the sink going to move around? How do you fix the free-standing metal sink to prevent movement?
As I left it in this video, yes, the sink can move around but it's actually turned out to not be a problem. Once I have the side on the cabinet the sink will be stuck down with silicone sealant, that will me more than enough to hold it in place.
There was nothing quick or simple about that.
There's a little locking tab in the centre of those crimp terminals, a pin or an awl can push it back to the open position and they slip straight off.
Thanks, next time I'm in there I'll make sure to look for that.
If the t-track is aluminum would it be better rather than to have aluminum against aluminum, is to have the t-nuts made of steel?
I honestly doubt it makes any difference. I have commercial t-nuts that are both steel and aluminium. I prefer the aluminium ones as the steel can raise a burr on the track if there's a sharp edge.